Photo: Heather Willensky for The New York Times

The dining room may be small, but the flavors are big at this hole in the wall that opened in Staten Island’s Port Richmond section during the pandemic. If you want to try the depth of its bench, order the four corners, a square pie that takes you on a tour of sauces: margherita, pesto, vodka and bianca. The crust has a pleasing chew. Younger, discerning diners will appreciate the round margherita. SARA BONISTEEL